BB: February 2011

Models are usually tight lipped and silent hangers but if anyone actually asked us we have a lot more input that you'd think. For example we are the ones who see the clothes before anyone, before they are even made most of the time as we are fitted in to them. We can tell you what designer uses great materials of high quality and what designers buy Marks and Spencer black trousers and put it down the runway. This season i was disappointed by London. I thought the shows were weak and the trends stale, however there was some new designers which i thought were wonderfully exciting, here are the pick of the crop and the worst designers to work for.

BAD
Roksanda illincic, beautiful use of orange and well cut clothes but the black and white pieces seemed to replicate Alexander Wang casuals. As a collection it was a hit with a few fails, as a person she should learn to not use and abuse models and assistants. She is one of many designers who will happily put a girl into a outfit or ten at a casting, keep her there for a hour or two and then not even ask for a card. Basically she uses models at castings as 'fit' models without having to pay the fee. I have a dozen or so friends who have done this for her and of course they cannot say anything.

Giles Deacon must been feeling Obama because his collection was like a monday to friday look per day for Michelle. From boring nun dresses to kitchen countertop prints, the entire collection was so ageing i was so bored i had to leave after the first 10 looks.

Osman, the boring shapes, the boring cuts, the boring man. A show which could have casted Gisele and still sleeping heads would be. The entire collection was a pile of colour which was thrown together with a couple of dodgy wigs. AWFUL. The lowlight of it was a pink and electric blue dress Imogen Newton wore which looked like the school doodles. Osman as a person is just a douchbag who thinks that he should only have 6'1 blonde 15 year olds in his show because he wishes he was one himself. Sorry guido, ain't gonna happen.

Christopher Kane, sorry but how can you design a collection based on wiggles? it was like Prada SS11 gone winter gone wrong. I wanted to run and hide. I know the golden boy can do no wrong and Vogue claimed it was a 'hit'. But the only hit i saw was the hit and run disaster f the collection. I hated the colours, the design and the materials. The casting was AWOL and not even Christopher Kane can go from neon body con to plaid sheer dresses to plastic liquid dresses and link any kind of theme.

Topshop Unique was disappointingly dotting. It felt like a clown show with no fun and the fussy design seemed ageing on the puppy faced girls. What a joke! But the casting was brilliant and KCD did a fabulous job.

GOOD

Mary Katrantzou is the star of this season. She took a geisha print dress from Zara and made it the theme of the collection, i am dying over the Balenciaga style structure and the print on print was so strong. She has taken Christopher Kane's crown and shoved it on her head. LOVE.

Hello Eudon Choi, everything from the superb quality clothes to the grungy harnesses made this collection as sleek and staple as Alexander Wang. The quantity was not important, the quality and the beautiful selection of pieces made this collection seem a million times more important than its actual venue. A budding star in the making, this collection was so outstanding the applause was nothing compared to the huge crowd who followed backstage to congratulate the designer after the show. Well done!!

Mark Fast, gorgeous creams and gorgeous knits. Not a big an of the coats but it was a good collection with a stronger more lighter theme.

Fyodar Golan, oh my god!! The cuts, the long lean shapes the amazing Dannijo bone jewellery, the plaited hair, the erin wasson fierce walks. Everything was so sophisticated and the attention to detail was beyond anything Proenza Schouler have done. I could see glimpses of the PS1 boys in these two and the gorgeous leather pieces reminded me of the last Alexander Mcqueen collection which included leather bump pieces over digitally printed dresses. Lush.

Burberry, i liked it when it was tougher but this collection was great. Light, exciting and cheerful. Good use of colours and FANTASTIC shapes, so excited to see how Bailey develops them next season!! On the other hand the girls could have been less predictable, Melissa T and Jourdan Dunn every year?

Marios Schwab, oh my god so beautiful! Like Fyodor Golan but with more leather scalloping and just over the knee lengths. Wonderful and achingly cool.

Alexander Wang is usually one of my favourites to look out for, but like style.com confirmed the last two seasons have been awkward for the boy wonder and i found this season to be mixed. I thought it was very clever of him to combine different jacket/coat styles together i.e tuxedo parka anyone? but it didn't seem flattering to the body and the shoes were more interesting than the actual clothes. I'd almost given up on liking anything when i saw these last evening looks which i do love, they feel very 90s grunge with a AKRIS elegance. Beautiful.

Altuzarra's show was relatively fun, i particularly love the inspiration based on Kate wearing oversized parkas over silk dresses back in her Johnny Depp days. These two looks seem to be the most simple but effective, i love the sheerness! So fun.

My new favourite Jeremy Laing was pretty amazing, 90s grunge with a waiflet gone wild attitude, loved the lengths and the beautiful prints. Crazy stuff.